Earlier this year, I took my dad and sister with partners in toe to Iceland. It's not the first time I have been, but it's the first time I have road tripped across the country in the middle of winter, and I'm here to tell you it's the adventure of a lifetime. From mornings watching the moon set over mountains, arctic structures, roaring waterfalls and some of the best food we've ever had; here's my list of places that are a MUST for anyone planning to road trip one of the most beautiful countries on earth in 2023.
1) The Arctic Henge
Ok, hear me out. It's a bit of a drive from Keflavik airport (8 hours to be exact) So it would be worth flying into Akureyri if you plan on adding this onto your list, but I promise you, you will not be disappointed. Set on the coast of Raufarhöfn, right on the cusp of the Arctic Circle, the Arctic henge stands 50 meters in diameter and 7 meters tall, on top of a hill, with unobstructed views of the remote town below, stretched out to the arctic coast. We arrived approximately 8am after a long overnight drive from KEF airport in some of the worst driving conditions I have ever experienced (more on the roads later). We scrambled to get our gloves, hats and winter coats on before making the short hike from the carpark to the top of the snow-covered hill. At the top of the hill, the Arctic henge stands majestically, proud in the arctic wind. Isolated from mankind. We watched the sun rise over the white hills and mountains, and the moon set in the background. The air was crisp and at -15C, one of the coldest mornings I have ever experienced. Freezing, quiet and totally serene. There was noone to be seen as we watched the blues turned to pink, to peach to yellow.
How to get there:
The henge is about 8 hours drive north of Keflavik international airport following route 1 north. If you are planning on driving this route, remember to add some stops along the way, including Fosholl, home to Goðafoss and Geitafoss waterfalls! You can also fly into Akureyri, which leaves you with a 2.5 hour drive on route 85 to the henge. This option would be ideal if you are planning to road trip the North of Iceland.
Places to stay:
The nearest large (ish) town to the Arctic Henge is Húsavik, 1.5hours south of Raufarhöfn. Whilst you can, by all means book an airbnb, there are some fantastic, affordable apartment options on booking.com. I love using booking.com because I can book with no payment required, which gives me time to assess my trip and make amendments where needed!
- Bjarnabúð The staff are super helpful and friendly here, we booked in the dead of winter and they gave us some invaluable travel tips.
- Guesthouse Brekka is perfect for a large group looking for some privacy.
- Árból Guesthouse if you're looking for something sleek and stylish, this place is your go to. Most booking options will also include breakfast, if that's what you're looking for. Other recommendations around the area:
The Arctic Henge is pretty remote, and the town of Raufarhöfn is one of the most remote towns in Iceland. I would therefore make the Henge a stop on your way back down the East coast of Iceland, and spending a little ore time in Húsavik. Depending on how long you are planning on staying in the area, there is a surprising number of things to do in this little town, including booking whale and puffin watching tours, jumping on a guided Diamond Circle tour or booking a walking tour from the city centre. If you are on a self guided road trip, I would recommend taking yourself on the Diamond Circle tour, which includes:
- Godafoss Waterfall
- Húsavik's wooden church
- Ásbyrgi Canyon
- Dettifoss Waterfall
Finally, no day at Húsavik should be complete without heading to Lemon Húsavik. My husband still maintains they serve the best smoothies he's ever had in his life (and I'll have to agree).
2) Höfn Harbour
Höfn is located on the south eastern coast of Iceland and is the second largest town on the southeastern side. Höfn means "harbour" in Icelandic, which is fitting for the fishing village, which offers unparalleled views of the icecaps of Vatnajökull (the largest in Europe!). We stayed in a little place called Gerdi, which was around 1hr south of Höfn. We rose early and drove north to explore the town. When we arrived, the town was silent and still. At a glance, it seemed there was no one to be found, nothing open. We wandered round marvelling at the ships, the mountainous backdrop and frozen sea. Eventually, we found a cozy little cafe named settled down for some lunch. The cafe was warm and cozy inside with a wooden interior and some of the best photography work I have ever seen of the local area displayed on the walls. We took our layers off and thawed. I didn't expect a fishing village of Iceland to specialise in pizza, but it was at Kaffi Horindand that I had one of the best pizzas of my life! After we fuelled, we drove towards Jökulsárlón for one of the most memorable afternoons of our lives.
How to get there:
Höfn is located on the south East coast of Iceland. You can get to it pretty easily on the Route 1 ring road, which circles the whole of Iceland. If you are headed on a self guided tour of Iceland, you will need to rent a car and head south on Route 1 from Reykjavik, which will take you around 7 hours. We drove south from the Arctic Henge, which took the same amount of time.
Places to stay:
Hofn is a popular village and has many guest houses to choose from. As I've already mentioned, you can book via airbnb, however I chose to use booking.com for my trip to ensure I had flexibility incase our plans changed closer to the trip. Here are. a few recommendations:
- The blackhouse for anyone who is looking for a basic booking this is your place. No breakfasts included, but access to garden and private parking is provided.
- Lilja Guesthouse is a stylish option with accommodation along the route 1 Ring Road. Unlike The black house, Lilja offers a breakfast options.
- Gerdi Guesthouse For those looking for more of a hostel type option, Gerdi is your gal. We stayed here during our 2022 Iceland road trip. The guesthouse was warm, cozy but very basic, which did us fine. Set into the mountain side Gerdi was picturesque and was the perfect backdrop for the Northern Lights
(Photo by my wonderful brother in law jliston)
Other recommendations around the area:
Hofn is right on top of of Vatnajökull National park. For the adventurous, you can book ice cave tours, Glacier hikes or visit Svartifoss waterfall
3) Jökulsárlón
When we arrived at Jökulsárlón, there was no denying this was a tourist hotspot- and for good reason. Jökulsárlón is a glacial lake on the verge of Vatnajökull National Park and literally means "Glacial river lagoon" in Icelandic. We parked up our car and spent a couple of hours exploring "diamond beach", which earned it's name due to the large boulders of ice which are scattered across the black sand beaches. The waves roared from the North Atlantic ocean crashing on the beach whilst the ice glistened in the winter afternoon sun. We walked across the bay before crossing the road to take a look at the lagoon. Because the area is such a hotspot for tourists, you can expect food trucks, toilet facilities and even somewhere to grab a warm hot chocolate after an afternoon of exploring caves, glacier lagoons or for the adventurous, climbing the peaks of Vatnajökull National Park. Seals also frequent the lagoon, coming in from the North Atlantic, so remember to pack your binoculars and be on the look out.
How to get there:
Jökulsárlón is on the southern tip of Vatnajökull National park and an hour south of Höfn. I would recommend staying in Höfn or close by and taking the ring road 1 south (if you are doing a self guided road trip. Otherwise, there are some great travel/ tour companies operating from Reykjavik
Places to stay:
If you are staying in the area, the best place to look for hotels would be Höfn, as it is the second largest town on the South Eastern coast. I would recommend any of the hotels listed above for your stay in Höfn
Other recommendations around the area:
Jökulsárlón is on the southern cusp of Vatnajökull National park, I listed some things to do in Vatnajökull National park here
4) The Blue Lagoon
The blue lagoon is one of Iceland's most iconic landmarks. Located close to the country's capital, Reykjavik, the blue lagoon makes the perfect road trip destination, or a day trip from Reykjavik if you are planning a city trip. This time around, I didn't take a dip in the lagoon (a long story involving taking a hike up a volcano in 60mph winds to see a lava flow), but I have previously swam there, so I was happy to watch my sister, dad and brother in law swim whilst I drank a well deserved glass of bubbly at the spa's gourmet Lava restaurant after being pelted with wind and ice. Because Iceland is a volcanic island, most of its minerals come from the soil. The lagoon contains high levels of silica, which gives the pool that dreamy blue glow that's oh so instagrammable. In my last visit, I took a swim and headed to the centre of the lagoon, where you can purchase some bubbly and a facepack, making the experience one of the most luxurious in Iceland!
How to get there:
The Blue Lagoon is located on the Southwestern tip of Iceland south of Reykjavik. The lagoon is accessible on route 45 from Reykjavik and has a fully accessible carpark, if you are driving there yourself. Alternatively, you can book one of many tour buses from the city centre which will leave from Reykjavik to the Blue Lagoon.
Places to stay:
The closest city is Reykjavik, which means there are plenty of beautiful hotels, guesthouses or airbnbs for you to choose from! I have listed some of my favourites below: - A Townhouse Hotel situated just outside a geothermal beach, A townhouse hotel boasts contemporary style, a large range of amenities and convenient location. There are several payment methods to help you with your booking.
- ION City Hotel is located on Laugavegur shopping street and depending on which room you book could have either sea or city views. The hotel has a fitness area among other amenities to offer!
- Apartments Reykjavik If you're more like me, apartments might be more your thing. They offer less amenities than hotels, but in my opinion you get a more personal, private experience. What better than coming back to your own stylish 1 bed apartment after a day in the thermal spas?
Finally, the Blue lagoon is first and foremost a spa experience, and you can very well stay on site if you are planning on a full day and evening of pampering. You can book these experiences direct from their website at either the Silica Hotel or the Retreat Hotel
Other recommendations around the area:
As I briefly mentioned earlier, I didn't go for a dip on my last trip to the Blue Lagoon in favour of a rather blustery climb on a volcano. The Blue Lagoon is a geothermal pool, warm as a reault of geothermal acitvity. It's therefore, no surprise that close by sits Fagradalsfjall volcano a mere 20 minutes away. Whilst I wouldn't recommend repeating my experience of hiking Fagradalsfjall in the morning and heading to the Blue Lagoon in the afternoon, I would recommend staying close by and hitting both locations within a couple of days of eachother. There is no better experience than watching a lavaflow one day and being utterly pampered with a glass of bubbly the next!
5) Gulfoss Waterfall
No trip to Iceland would be complete without visiting one of the country's many waterfalls. Gulfoss is a tiered waterfall split into two parts standing at 32 meters high. Gulfoss means "golden waterfall" in Icelandic, and gets its name due to the golden yellow colour the water goes in the summer months. The waterflow from Gulfoss can reach 80 cubic meters per second, making it the largest waterfall in Europe. I have had the pleasure of witnessing Gulfoss both in the dead of winter and in spring, when the ice melts. Both times of year offer unique experiences and truly exhibit the majesty of this magnificent waterafall. Gulfoss was one of the final destinations on our road trip and was the first stop on the way to see the Geysir's before heading home. We drove into the carpark, which was empty, got out of the car and made a short 30 min hike to the waterfall. The weather was cold and wet, snow pelting our faces as we walked. We stood and marvelled at the waterfall for a short while before jumping back into our car and heading towards the Geysir. You can also experience this as part of a tour package from Reykjavik, I have previously booked as part of the "Golden Cirlce tour" which was a fantastic way to see Gulfoss, Geysir, Thingvellir National park along with some unique destinations including a tomato farm (yes, really)!
How to get there:
Gulfoss waterfall is about 1 hour in land from Reykjavik on route 36. The journey isn't too bad, however in winter the roads are extremely treacherous, so drive with caution! If you are not part of a self guided tour, you can book to see Gulfoss waterfall as part of a Golden Circle tour
Places to stay:
If you are part of a self guided road trip, there are some fantastic options close by to the falls which you can book, allowing you to get up early and beat the crowds, some of my favourite finds are below:
- Hotel Gulfoss couldn't be closer if you tried. For location, you cannot beat this stay.
- Farmhotel Efstidalur is also super close by, boasting a hot tub and 15 minute drive from Gulfoss.
- Torfhús Retreat if you are looking to stay in the area a little longer and can afford something a little pricier, here's your stay.
Other recommendations around the area:
I meantioned earlier that Gulfoss was part of The Golden Circle tour. If you are driving on your own, you can create this tour yourself by hitting the nearby Geysir, a geothermal hot spring which erupts intermittently at incredible temperatures. Thingvellier National park is also close by, a historic park which sits on the valley of two tectonic plates- you can quite literally change continents!
6) Reynisfjara Black sand beach Vik
Reynisfjara is one of Icelands many black sand beaches a short drive from the fishing village of Vik on the south coast of Iceland. With its ink black sand, roaring Atlantic waves and iconic geometric stacks, Reynisfjara makes for a memorable addition to your road trip. We stopped here after a morning of driving to stretch our legs and walk up the beach. The fresh salt air was cold, sharp and invigorating. The beach was empty in the depths of winter and snow clung to the mountains which encompass the beach. We walked as the late afternoon sun illuminated the snow, sinking deep into the black sands.
How to get there:
Situated on the country's route 1 ring road, Reynisfjara is relatively easy to get to by car. There is a carpark close to the beach making the destination a rather short hike.
Places to stay:
When we road tripped across iceland, Vik, was a stop along the way between Höfn and Selfoss. With that being said, here are a couple of suggestions from booking.com that I seriously considered for our stay: - Hotel Vík í Mýrdal - Black Beach suites
Other recommendations around the area:
Vik is a small picturesque town, with a beautiful wooden church situated ontop of a hill overlooking the black sand beaches. In the summer the church is surrounded by Iupins. In winter, the church stands in a fields of snow. I recommend taking a look at the church and taking some unfogettable photos, if you can! There are also a number of adventures to be had from Vik, including snowmobile adventures and a quad bike safari experience
Getting around
Iceland during the winter months is an experience everyone must try once in their life. With that being said, the roads are truly treacherous and unpredictable. When planning your routes, make sure to accommodate for an additional 2/3 hours of driving, as roads are icy and sometimes unkept. This makes them extremely dangerous even if you're only driving the speed limit. During our road trip, we experienced slips, whiteouts, icy steep mountainous roads (be careful of these) and crashes are extremely common during the winter months. If you are planning a self guided tour, ensure that you take out the following when hiring your vehicle:
- Full insurance
- Ice tyres/ studs
- 4x4 wheel drive (trust me on this one).
Iceland can be a very expensive place to rent a car out, but it's worth every penny to be protected. We hired our car using Reykjavik rent a car to help us compare and filter for what we were looking for. It's also worth searching a few videos on youtube for "driving in Iceland winter" to give you an idea of what you're up against.
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Great write up.